As everyone should know by now I decided to go ahead with my first head shave. Never done it before in my life and figured now was the best opportunity to try it out. What do you think? It could be my look for the next year or two. Makes hair cuts less complicated, less shampoo, less water to lug to the shower, cooler…I just have to keep it from too much sun.
My family cuts their hair by taking a fine blade and placing it together with a comb. The blade edge rides close to the tip of the comb’s bristles so it’s not a direct shave, but just as close as electric clippers might get it. Long story short I got curious how they cut their hair and thirty minutes later there was nothing left. However, the blade technique didn’t work too well on my hair so the buzz was achieved with a sole pair of scissors. I figure it was a good bonding experience with my family (of course they were delighted as they watched) but needless to say I had to go back over it with someone’s clippers to even things out a couple of days later.
Had my first go riding passenger of a motor bike today! I know I’ve already mentioned this but motorbikes are the most common mode of transportation here. They’ll whip around at quick speeds and at times really load them with people. The other day I saw 4 grown men on one motorcycle heading out the dirt road to the fields for work. My spin was short today but enjoyable nonetheless. No doubt it will be something I become quite accustomed to.
Funny thing happened today with a friend of mine. We had been forewarned about the ants here and how they can become very abundant and unfriendly at the same time, though we had not yet experienced it. Sometimes you can walk along the road and see a fine line of large ants marching across the road, but I always just step over them and continue on my way. Well today as we walked through a path we had the misfortune of happening upon an infestation of red ants. At first I was curiously interested by the millions of ants that I just realized I was standing on, but as my friend (who was in front) shrieked and bolted past me I felt the first couple bites! Man! Those things swarmed our legs in a hurry and we spent a good five minutes trying to rid ourselves of them all!
I’ve been feeling sorry for my house mom. She’s been suffering from a terrible toothache the past couple of days. She’s gone to get medicine but I’m not sure if she has any intention of making a trip to a dentist of any sort. Their pastor came by tonight to see how she was doing, but you can still tell she’s having a hard time of it. I wish there was something I could do besides offering a cheer for “du courage”. From the sounds of it she needs to have a tooth pulled. Reminds me too of the Nigerian soccer player I met back in Lome. The poor guy made his living playing soccer, but had hurt his knee. Neither he nor his team had the money to get him a good doctor and the fate of his career and livelihood was basically left to chance that things would heal up for him. It’s another reminder of comforts most of us back home are privilege to.
Time to wrap up again. I’ll be up early for exercise with Jera and I know he won’t let me out of it. 5:15 we’ll be at it. Push-ups on bricks, pull ups in an orange tree and a jog to the tall Capocier tree every other day (Shimmying one of the Papaya trees, optional). Hope everyone’s doing well! A plus!
29 October 2009
22 October 2009
Town at Night
It’s about bed time for me right now as I right, but I want to get an entry ready for when I go to town either tomorrow or the next day. As I contemplate what to write I’m stroking the fine bristles of my very distinguished African moustache. Facial hair is a rare thing to see with the locals here, so I wear mine proudly. I figure why not? The peepers are chirping outside my window just like they do at home and while my computer is on (freshly charged off the generator last night) I’m able to indulge in some French music in the light of my lantern.
Doing things by lantern light has become second nature already. Being as I never really minded power outages, I’m still getting a kick out of using that and a couple handy flashlights for getting about at night. I ran out of oil yesterday but tonight my lantern is full. I just got back not long ago from buying the lamp oil. It cost 475 CFA for a liter and two small boxes of matches. That comes out to about $1 U.S. (depending on the generosity of the exchange rate, if one has larger bills one might get 500 CFA/ U.S. dollar). I bought it from a corner boutique where a mother has her son measure out a liter according to an old glass bottle. He uses a funnel to pour the pre-measured oil into my plastic Voltic bottle (Voltic is one of the reliable bottled water producers in Togo). Here bottles are precious and you have to bring your own bottle to put your oil into. And if you buy a soda you better make good on your promise to return the bottle if you plan on taking it with you. Otherwise, you’re probably not welcome back. They may not have a bottle deposit here but I can tell you already that these people do a much better job of recycling bottles than we do in the states.
The walk back at night time along the main road reminds me of the old trucks that constantly rumble through town. There’s a cement factory further down the road from town. The cement is made and shipped out all over the country of Togo and even into neighboring Ghana and Benin. They’re loaded into what are basically semi’s, except none of them look any newer than 20 years old, each one clearly overused and under maintained.
I am accustomed to them by now, but I still think about the risk they bring to the safety of the people who happen to be along this road. Even at night the trucks come through town at a good clip and it’s a wonder that more accidents don’t happen involving these trucks or even the other bush taxis and motor bikes that cruise through town at all times.
Two weeks ago there was an accident involving one truck maybe 1 kilometer outside of town. The truck had gone off the side of a bridge and crashed into the river bank. As far as anyone could figure there were multiple casualties including a pedestrian, the driver and several of his passengers who no doubt were merely riding in the open back of the truck. But there was no telling what caused the accident. There was only speculation. It could have been that the driver fell asleep (truck drivers here must drive through the night without proper rest) or it could have just as easily been a loss of breaks at the wrong time. Regardless, it took about a week for the truck to finally be removed from the river. These kind of things are always unsettling but I was somewhat surprised by the lack of concern that people had for what had happened. It seems to me that these things are somewhat commonplace and that people are almost just used to it.
But this isn’t to give the impression that all’s gloomy here! Walking through town at night is in fact quite a neat thing. It’s probably the time the street is the busiest thanks to the night vendors who come out to sell the goods that they didn’t have time to sell during the day. Although you can’t always see the vendors themselves, the things they sell are all lit on roadside tables by innumerable oil lamps. You might also happen to hear music playing if one of the town’s two bars is playing music that night with electricity from their generators.
Tonight I my eye was caught by a type of peanut snack that one woman was selling. Peanuts are pretty common here in Togo so apart from being used in sauces they also make homemade candy from them. They remind me of the center of a butterfinger in a way with that hard texture but nutty flavor. Urged by my sweet tooth I bought two, one for myself and one for my brother who had helped me find the oil stand and who was carrying my oil for me. He’s a very helpful kid. Always willing and cheerful. Tomorrow he’ll be making the walk along the same road 6 kilometers and back just to visit his older brother who works in the bigger town with a grinder called a “moulin” (the thing that grinds the maize into a powder). I tell him to be careful and think how horrified my mom would have been by the thought of me walking alone for 6 km along such a road at the age of 15 with no cell phone she could call to check up on me with. But that’s the way here. He’s not doing anything abnormal.
Doing things by lantern light has become second nature already. Being as I never really minded power outages, I’m still getting a kick out of using that and a couple handy flashlights for getting about at night. I ran out of oil yesterday but tonight my lantern is full. I just got back not long ago from buying the lamp oil. It cost 475 CFA for a liter and two small boxes of matches. That comes out to about $1 U.S. (depending on the generosity of the exchange rate, if one has larger bills one might get 500 CFA/ U.S. dollar). I bought it from a corner boutique where a mother has her son measure out a liter according to an old glass bottle. He uses a funnel to pour the pre-measured oil into my plastic Voltic bottle (Voltic is one of the reliable bottled water producers in Togo). Here bottles are precious and you have to bring your own bottle to put your oil into. And if you buy a soda you better make good on your promise to return the bottle if you plan on taking it with you. Otherwise, you’re probably not welcome back. They may not have a bottle deposit here but I can tell you already that these people do a much better job of recycling bottles than we do in the states.
The walk back at night time along the main road reminds me of the old trucks that constantly rumble through town. There’s a cement factory further down the road from town. The cement is made and shipped out all over the country of Togo and even into neighboring Ghana and Benin. They’re loaded into what are basically semi’s, except none of them look any newer than 20 years old, each one clearly overused and under maintained.
I am accustomed to them by now, but I still think about the risk they bring to the safety of the people who happen to be along this road. Even at night the trucks come through town at a good clip and it’s a wonder that more accidents don’t happen involving these trucks or even the other bush taxis and motor bikes that cruise through town at all times.
Two weeks ago there was an accident involving one truck maybe 1 kilometer outside of town. The truck had gone off the side of a bridge and crashed into the river bank. As far as anyone could figure there were multiple casualties including a pedestrian, the driver and several of his passengers who no doubt were merely riding in the open back of the truck. But there was no telling what caused the accident. There was only speculation. It could have been that the driver fell asleep (truck drivers here must drive through the night without proper rest) or it could have just as easily been a loss of breaks at the wrong time. Regardless, it took about a week for the truck to finally be removed from the river. These kind of things are always unsettling but I was somewhat surprised by the lack of concern that people had for what had happened. It seems to me that these things are somewhat commonplace and that people are almost just used to it.
But this isn’t to give the impression that all’s gloomy here! Walking through town at night is in fact quite a neat thing. It’s probably the time the street is the busiest thanks to the night vendors who come out to sell the goods that they didn’t have time to sell during the day. Although you can’t always see the vendors themselves, the things they sell are all lit on roadside tables by innumerable oil lamps. You might also happen to hear music playing if one of the town’s two bars is playing music that night with electricity from their generators.
Tonight I my eye was caught by a type of peanut snack that one woman was selling. Peanuts are pretty common here in Togo so apart from being used in sauces they also make homemade candy from them. They remind me of the center of a butterfinger in a way with that hard texture but nutty flavor. Urged by my sweet tooth I bought two, one for myself and one for my brother who had helped me find the oil stand and who was carrying my oil for me. He’s a very helpful kid. Always willing and cheerful. Tomorrow he’ll be making the walk along the same road 6 kilometers and back just to visit his older brother who works in the bigger town with a grinder called a “moulin” (the thing that grinds the maize into a powder). I tell him to be careful and think how horrified my mom would have been by the thought of me walking alone for 6 km along such a road at the age of 15 with no cell phone she could call to check up on me with. But that’s the way here. He’s not doing anything abnormal.
10 October 2009
Out of Lomé
So it’s been about 2 weeks now since I left the capital city of Lome and I’ve been living in a smaller village since. It’s a village of about 6,000 people and is only 4 kilometers from a larger town where a sizable market, electricity and internet can be found (hence why I’m able to get this message out). I pretyped the majority of this message so I could be quick in the internet cafe where I am now (it costs 300 CFA for 1 hour and it's better to avoid having to type with a different keyboard).
I only just got my first letters from home 2 days ago. They all came at once but they were welcome reminders of home. Despite my displacement, I am becoming quite comfortable here. From day one I’ve been the recipient of much warm welcome from other volunteers, the community and especially the family I’m living with (which is 9 people). It’s a modest but quaint and pleasant living arrangement. Four rooms, a trellised area out front, a kitchen in an outdoor hut, a latrine and two shower compartments all surrounded by a variety of plant life including maize, pineapples, papaya trees, palm trees and more.
Mention of the fruit reminds of how well I’ve been eating thus far. I have been treated to some excellent food. It’s very much the norm to have fresh fruit with my meal, which beyond what was mentioned above also includes oranges and bananas (which are especially sweet here). I have so many oranges! Instead of pealing the oranges here they cut out the top and squeeze the juice into their mouths. Because I don’t get much else beyond bad tasting water (needless to say i've all but quit coffee drinking for the time being) I’m always looking forward to my next hand squeezed orange juice.
These people are also sauce extraordinaires too. While they subsist off a couple of normally bland stable crops, they are able to turn out some amazing dishes by having a variety of sauces that is usually kicked with a healthy dose of hot pepper. In case you were curious they mainly eat fingerfood dishes called “pat” or “pot” (ground maize), “fufu” (pounded manioc or yam that becomes a kind of sticky mashed potato), couscous, macaroni or rice. Sometimes they will supplement it with chicken, goat, fish or even guinea pig!
There’s been a lot of adjustments so far and there is no doubt that there will be many more to come. Nonetheless, I manage to do just fine and in fact it’s very easy to maintain a good spirit despite inconveniences (such as the norm of wearing pants in humid 80-90 degrees to be polite or the need to purify every drink of water you take). Somehow the spirit of these people make you forget about some of these things that I would instinctively be unsettled by. But in fact, some of the inconveniences are becoming pleasures. I can’t take a faucet shower but every night I do get to take a bucket bath while gazing up at a million sparkling stars. Try and tell me that’s not cool!
Il faut que j'y aille! A la prochaine!
I only just got my first letters from home 2 days ago. They all came at once but they were welcome reminders of home. Despite my displacement, I am becoming quite comfortable here. From day one I’ve been the recipient of much warm welcome from other volunteers, the community and especially the family I’m living with (which is 9 people). It’s a modest but quaint and pleasant living arrangement. Four rooms, a trellised area out front, a kitchen in an outdoor hut, a latrine and two shower compartments all surrounded by a variety of plant life including maize, pineapples, papaya trees, palm trees and more.
Mention of the fruit reminds of how well I’ve been eating thus far. I have been treated to some excellent food. It’s very much the norm to have fresh fruit with my meal, which beyond what was mentioned above also includes oranges and bananas (which are especially sweet here). I have so many oranges! Instead of pealing the oranges here they cut out the top and squeeze the juice into their mouths. Because I don’t get much else beyond bad tasting water (needless to say i've all but quit coffee drinking for the time being) I’m always looking forward to my next hand squeezed orange juice.
These people are also sauce extraordinaires too. While they subsist off a couple of normally bland stable crops, they are able to turn out some amazing dishes by having a variety of sauces that is usually kicked with a healthy dose of hot pepper. In case you were curious they mainly eat fingerfood dishes called “pat” or “pot” (ground maize), “fufu” (pounded manioc or yam that becomes a kind of sticky mashed potato), couscous, macaroni or rice. Sometimes they will supplement it with chicken, goat, fish or even guinea pig!
There’s been a lot of adjustments so far and there is no doubt that there will be many more to come. Nonetheless, I manage to do just fine and in fact it’s very easy to maintain a good spirit despite inconveniences (such as the norm of wearing pants in humid 80-90 degrees to be polite or the need to purify every drink of water you take). Somehow the spirit of these people make you forget about some of these things that I would instinctively be unsettled by. But in fact, some of the inconveniences are becoming pleasures. I can’t take a faucet shower but every night I do get to take a bucket bath while gazing up at a million sparkling stars. Try and tell me that’s not cool!
Il faut que j'y aille! A la prochaine!
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